Siurana climbing trip 2017

This post is about some of my favourite climbs I sent at Siurana. This trip was my first real outdoor climbing trip away from the UK. Leading up to my flight, I was so psyched! I just couldn’t believe I was finally going to a crag I had heard so much about. 

I had recently had a bit of a poor weekend competing at BMC youth open events. My main focus for that weekend was to make finals in the Lead and hopefully podium at the lead event, however I missed out of finals by one place, oh well I said to myself just got to move on, that’s the nature of competitions and I just had to accept that day was not my day. 

After that comp I wasn’t to certain how I would be climbing in Spain, I knew I had been training hard, but I thought that maybe I was doing something wrong. When I got to Spain however I found that actually that wasn’t the case and I was really pleased with my performance on the rock!

On my first day, we visited a small sector of Siurana called L’Heroborlai. It wasn’t the best sectors, but it already had one of the best lines I had ever tried on it, “Cójon Prieto” an amazing  line following a red limestone path that leads to a spike big enough for you to sit on and admire the view. 

On the second day, I managed to onsight probably the best sport route I have ever done in my life, a super awesome 40 metre 7c Called Lua. It’s just such an impressive piece of rock that juts out from the rest of Est. the climbing is sustained and super enjoyable, leading to an awesome finish, which I think makes it such an impressive route, going up a huge arète which made me feel as if I was back home on the gritstone.

The final arète on the super awesome Lua!

After that I was just so pyched, for the next couple of days I just went on a spree of doing the best looking climbs I could find. I happened to get back on Lua again on my fifth day, although this time I tried a climb in the guidebook called Super Lua which was given 8a project. I can’t seem to find any recorded scent of this climb but it was awesome! The same start and finish as Lua, just with more moves and more powerful moves for its crux.

A few days after that I woke up keen to get to Centre, it paid off because I managed to beat the hot sun and climb another one of my absolute favourite routes, Memorias de una Sepia.  An awesome 8a which I managed to send second attempt. The climbing on it was fairly powerful and when I had tried it the day before in he blistering heat the moves had felt desperate. But when I went up first to the next morning everything seemed fine, the climb felt completely different, I was just so pyched to get another 8a ticked in only a couple of goes. 

The trip has just got me still so pyched, I can’t wait for the rest of this year although I was little disappointed to see how small everything feels over here at the Peak District, oh well time to try and send some some projects!

Evolv Nexxo

I recently obtained support from Evolv from Beyond Hope, and have been wearing there great shoe the Nexxo! I have found the Nexxo to be a brilliant shoe so here are a few photos Thankyou Evolv and Beyond Hope!

          

Austria and Italy

From the 6th of April to the 10th, I was away with the rest of the GB Lead Climbing Team. During this Team trip we went to Austria (Imst and Innsbruck) and also Italy’s Arco. The purpose of this trip was to get used to climbing on international standard walls, and ones which will hold many European Cups and even the Worlds. On the 6th of April we all met up either at 11147094_1613144685567598_3310183017722903040_nManchester or Gatwick Airport. We all arrived in
Munich together and then travelled to Innsbruck where we would be staying. During this trip I shared a room with Hamish Mcarthur, a young climber who I learned does not get pumped at all. The next day we travelled to Imst climbing wall… we went on both the indoor and outdoor wall at imst. I warmed up with Hamish and Pippa Watkin on a a cooled 6b indoor and then a gigantic 6c leading up the massive overhang on the right hand side. Afterwards me and Hamish decided we were warmed up enough and a got on a 7a+ which had a bit of a jump on the last move, my first attempt saw me overcook the jump and i went flying off. Then I saw Hamish on the move and which he just managed to deadpoint to its undercut, and so I got back on and made the move with out overcooking the jump. I then looked towards a a very steep 7c+ going up the massive overhang directly on the left and then traversing on a flat overhang at the top. I watched as many climbers fell off and only saw one person who tried who11070987_1614073462141387_6721435216350480036_n did it and that was Molly. I went up this route and found to my delight that none of the moves were to big but instead all quite reachable and then found my self towards the last few moves on slopey crimps and a little pumped. I reached in to a flat undercut on the flat overhang and then with my right hand grabbed a sloper type jug not as good as you’d like it to be after climbing all that way, and then the same with my left hand… my feet came off the wall but I still hung on and campused to the last jug and then quickly got them up. I then shook out the last hold before I got the clip as I had already seen two climbers fall off trying to clip the chain, and then I went and pulled the rope up using my teeth and quickly put the rope into the chain. I was booming that I had just done the climb and went outside following everyone else. Whilst I was outside I used the time to get on hard lines such as 8a+ and see how i got on. I was happy with my performance outside as i put in a good effort on an 8a and also made it very high on an 8a+. After trying climbs like this all session I finished on a easy 6c leading all the way up Imsts outside wall, which I admit 11140005_1613145962234137_6138853504472645910_nscared me on the last move as I had to jump. After a great day of climbing we headed back to Innsbruck and got some rest. The next day we walked to Tirol in Innsbruck, this was my worst climbing day but one I learnt greatly from. We started by being given routes for each category and then tried them. I made an early mistake on the climb were my foot popped off, and I got really angry with myself, but after eating a sandwich and feeling ready I got back on and fell of within the overhand about four clips higher. I then tried a 8a and fell off on the last few moves, and took a gigantic whipper! i then did some easier climbs such as a 7c and two 7a’s and some 6c’s to cool down and was then happy with my effort. The next day we travelled to Arco in Italy, now my favourite place to climb and the nicest place I have visited. The walls were amazing, there were not many 11017167_1614072992141434_4264379564468213956_nclimbs on them perhaps only 15, but it was good! the climbs were so cool and I even managed to climbed the hardest grade there (only a 7c) but a good one at that. I even managed to loose my glasses on the way up the route and I was even more happy they didn’t break. I managed to do every climb I  tried in arco and really got a feel for 10169450_1614073032141430_4837274729851279241_nthe walls and how good the setting was, apart from the spinning holds mostly from a certain Scottish lad Angus. Afterwards we walked through the town of Arco and tasted the delicious Ice creams, and I even bought a cap from La Sportiva. And so the  last day of the trip we only hD Two hours climbing, but I fell off the last move of an 8a and thought I could have done it (I really hate hand pops) and a couple of 7a’s to finish…oh and also we met Jakob Shubert. So on the drive back to the airport we were all booming, and I enjoyed the company of Hamish, Sammy and Keiran and we were sad to say goodbye. When I arrived home constantly talking about the trip, I found a pair of Nexxos had arrive from my new Sponsors/supporters Evolv at Beyond Hope!!!

GB Team training

On the 7th to 8th of march I was in Leeds for Team training. we were given five climbs to try out and if possible complete. The day usually picks which competitors make it to European competitions, however the most climbs anyone did was three (they were hard climbs). The climbs were hard but brilliant with an 8a climb running up the overhang which I made a good attempt at, and came off of the same point as many youth A climbers.